A boro tank is the outer housing – the glass and frame section that holds your e-liquid and sits inside the mod. An RBA bridge is the insert that goes inside the tank. The bridge holds the coil and cotton, directs airflow, and connects to the mod’s positive pin. You need both to have a working setup. The bridge is where the customisation happens. The tank is the vessel.

It depends on the product. Some boro tanks are sold as complete kits including a bridge. Others are sold as tank bodies only, and you choose your bridge separately. Always check the product listing before ordering. If you’re buying separately, make sure the bridge dimensions are compatible with your tank.

No. Boro tanks are designed to fit boro-compatible mods specifically. The standard boro form factor is widely supported, but dimensions can vary between manufacturers. Before ordering, check that your mod accepts standard boro-sized tanks and that the bridge pin connection matches. If you’re building around a Billet Box or a similar well-known boro mod, most tanks from Thunderhead Creations, Suicide Mods, and SXK will fit, but it’s always worth verifying.

A stock coil bridge accepts pre-manufactured replacement coil heads – similar to fitting a coil in a conventional tank. You don’t need to build anything. An RBA bridge has an open deck where you wind your own coil from wire and wick it with cotton. Stock coil bridges are easier to use. RBA bridges give you more control over resistance, flavour, and running cost.

For a tight MTL draw, you want a bridge with a small airflow aperture and a single-coil deck built to higher resistance – typically 1.0 ohm and above. Some MTL boro bridges include interchangeable airflow pins so you can fine-tune the draw. If you’re using nic salts, an MTL build is the right choice. Our guide to mouth to lung vs direct to lung vaping explains the difference in more detail.

Yes, nic salts work well in MTL boro builds. They’re best suited to higher-resistance coils (1.0 ohm or above) at lower wattages, which is exactly what a tight MTL bridge delivers. The UK legal limit for nicotine-containing e-liquid is 20 mg/ml. If you’re running a more open RDL or DTL build, stick to lower nicotine freebase liquids instead. Our nic salts guide has a full breakdown of when to use each type.

For MTL builds, a 50/50 VG/PG blend is the better choice. The thinner consistency wicks faster into tighter cotton and reduces the risk of dry hits on smaller coil heads. For RDL or more open builds, a 60/40 or 70/30 high-VG blend works well and produces more vapour. Using a thick high-VG liquid in a tight MTL boro setup is one of the most common causes of poor wicking and dry hits. Our guide to VG and PG explains how each affects your vape.

The most common wicking mistake is packing too much cotton into the tank section. You want the wick tails to sit lightly in the juice channels, not compressed so tightly that liquid can’t flow through. Cut the cotton so the tails just reach the bottom of the juice channel, fluff the ends slightly to break up the fibres, and make sure the coil is seated centrally on the deck. If you’re new to building, our guide to building vape coils walks through the full process. Our guide to avoiding dry hits covers the troubleshooting side.

Most MTL boro vapers build between 0.8 ohm and 1.5 ohm, depending on the wire type and their preferred power range. A 1.0 ohm Ni80 round wire coil at 10-14 watts is a solid starting point for a tight, flavourful MTL draw. If you’re using nic salts, staying at 1.0 ohm or above keeps the throat hit manageable. Our beginners guide to vape coils has more on resistance and how it affects your vape.

It’s different rather than harder. A stock coil bridge in a boro tank is very close to maintaining a conventional tank – replace the coil head when it tastes burnt, clean the tank occasionally, refill as needed. An RBA bridge takes more involvement: you’re building and wicking yourself, which takes practice but pays off in running costs and flavour quality. If you’re coming from RTAs or RDAs, the learning curve is minimal.

Check the mod’s product listing or manual to confirm it accepts standard boro tanks. Most boro-compatible mods use a standard form factor, but tolerances vary. If you’re using a well-known mod like the Billet Box, most major brands build to fit it directly. If you’re unsure, check with us before ordering. Getting this wrong is the most expensive mistake in the boro category, and it’s easily avoided with a quick compatibility check.

Thunderhead Creations, Suicide Mods, and SXK are the brands we trust in this category. Thunderhead Creations builds to very tight tolerances and their RBA decks are well-regarded for deck access and wicking room. Suicide Mods have a long history in the AIO format and their tanks are known for solid fitment. SXK offer strong value at a lower price point without a significant drop in quality. All three are stocked in our boro tanks & RBAs category.

Boro tanks are built for AIO mods, so everything stays enclosed in a compact, pocket-friendly housing rather than an exposed tank section bolted to a standalone mod. This keeps the whole setup smaller and neater to carry, while still giving you access to rebuildable performance through an RBA bridge. Traditional RTAs generally offer larger juice capacity and can be easier to maintain for newer builders, thanks to more spacious decks. Boro setups suit vapers who prioritise a discreet, integrated form factor and don’t mind the smaller juice wells that come with it.